F.A.Q.

Weeds

Q: Can you take care of our weeds in the walkways, driveway or flower beds?
A:  No, not usually.  That requires a different pesticide license and we are only associated with turf.  Often, other plants, like flowers or shrubs, may be in the vicinity of weeds and the herbicide may damage or kill plants you want to keep.  We use a high pressure system to get rid of weeds and the small droplets from our equipment can easily be displaced by a light breeze.  As much as we want to help, there isn’t much we can do in that department.
Q:  In the summer months, what is this grass growing higher than the rest of the lawn within 24 hours of mowing?

A:  Most likely, it’s not a grass, but a weed.  A common weed in recent years with this characteristic is yellow nutsedge.  Nutsedge is a type of sedge, which is caused by an abundance of water.  “Nut” refers to the roots.  At the bottom of the roots are nuts (bulbs).  If the bulbs are not appropriately wiped out, this weed will come back each year.  Nutsedge can double in population in one year!  Many herbicides are labeled for nutsedge, but very few control it.  Every pesticide labeled for this weed will state “suppression or control of nutsedge”, you are left to figure out which one you get.  The goal is to get control, killing this weed down to the bulb.  Suppression looks like control, the plant dies, but the bulb remains intact.  A bulb that was suppressed may not send a new plant until the following year, making results of the herbicide difficult to assess.  If you take the time to spray for nutsedge one year and next summer, it is not any better or worse, use a different herbicide!  Since this is a very fast growing weed, reproduces rapidly and is only up in the summer months when you are limited at spraying herbicides in the heat, will make this a very difficult weed to control.  It may take a couple years to completely eradicate nutsedge, but most of the population shoud be controlled in the first year .  Control of this weed is included in our program, no additional charges.  If this weed comes up in between visits, that is a good time to take advantage of our free service calls.  The more we stay on top of it, the better control we are going to have!

Q: Towards the end of the season, there are sections of my grass with little tiny spiked balls on them. Is this good or bad?

A:  Bad.  This is a weed called kyllinga.  The spiked balls are actually seed heads of kyllinga, which you do not want to reproduce.  Unfortunately, this type of sedge is the most difficult to control and resembles grass very closely.  Kyllinga is about the same height of grass, but has a different shade of green and tends to have a glossy appearance.  Very few herbicides even have this particular weed on their label and to get control of it, requires a lot of extra care.  When this plant is killed, it will get a reddish-brown when most plants would get a yellowish-brown.  Many times this weed will look it was killed (controlled), but it was only suppressed and can easily come back!  Using the right herbicide and limiting water flow to these areas is the only solution.  If negelected, kyllinga coverage could double in just one year.

Weed Control Resources

Maintenance Tips

Q:  At what height should I mow?

A: Mowing height should be at a minimum of 3 inches (length of the grass blade).  Ideally, you want to be at 3.5 – 4 inches. Taller the grass blades, deeper the roots.  This will lead to a healthier lawn and it will increase durability.  It is a good idea to leave grass tall during hot and dry periods, as it will help prevent the lawn from burning up.  Be careful not to mow too short, especially on the edges.  Grass mowed too short can be burned up easily by the sun and most edges are surrounded by paving, which gives off even more heat.  Never mow more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time.  Also, please keep n mind, settings on the lawn mower may be different than the height it will cut the grass.  Sometimes a lawn mower could cut 1″ shorter than the setting.  Using a ruler, measure grass blades after the lawn is mowed, starting at the soil surface.

Q: How often should my lawn mower blades be sharpened?

A: If you are only mowing one property and depending on the size, once a year should be plenty.  Cleaning and sharpening the lawn mower blades should be scheduled, at least, with the time of tune up to the mower.  When grass blades don’t get a clean cut, their end become frayed.  The split ends of the grass opens the door to disease and becomes weaker against other stresses.  In order to tell if the blades of the lawn mower need sharpening, look for frayed ends on the tips of grass after a mowing.  Keep in mind, if you go a long time without mowing and grass gets long, this could lead to split ends as well.

Q: When mowing the lawn, should you bag or mulch?

A: By mulching grass clippings, you are keeping nutrients in the soil longer.  Many think it may contribute to the thatch layer since dead grass clippings may come up when you de-thatch, but is not necessarily causing the problem that are associated with thatch.  The grass clippings decompose and adds organic matter to the soil, increasing the availability of nutrients in the soil.  A significant amount of grass clippings would be needed for it to cause problems associated with thatch.

You want to avoid going more than 10 days, during the growing season, without mowing.  By the time two weeks comes around, there may be too much grass to mulch.  This would be the only time you want to bag.  You do not want clumps of grass clippings!  The clumps will smother out the grass underneath and could eventually kill grass.  Wet clumps will make matters worse!  Also, mowing when the grass is high, could lead to frayed ends of grass blades, making the lawn more susceptible to disease.

Lawn Maintenance Resources

Common questions about organic insect control

Q: Can these applications be applied in the rain?

A:  Light rain will not affect this product. Heavy rains should be avoided.  Soap product mixed with the oil increases residual, so most rainfall will not render this product ineffective.

Q: How does organic insect control work?

A:  The natural oil used disrupts the functionality of certain insects, repelling them for up to 30 days . These applications also cause insects’ exoskeleton to dry out, leading to death.

Q: How long does it take for the insects to die?

A:  At worse, within a few hours. Most applications works within minutes.

Q: Could an application discolor patios, walkways, furniture or decks?

A:  No

Lawn Care and Insect Control Resources