Dirt & Turf will try figure out what’s causing the disease. Environmental factors will often play a role. Water management and the type of grass are the most common reasons for turf disease, which is a fungus. More moisture equals more disease. Tall fescue is far more tolerant of the diseases that are common in New Jersey lawns, compared to other cool season turf grasses.
Often recommended, let the affected grass die, use that money towards seed, and replace the dead grass with a grass that won’t get that disease (tall fescue). One issue with this, many times disease could brown out lawns, but won’t kill the grass and the grass with disease will bounce back as climate becomes more favorable. Seed only fills in the gaps, does not replace what is there, so if the affected grass doesn’t die, similar issues could arise next summer. Treatment of disease is more expensive than fertilizer and should include the homeowner’s preference for the course of action with disease. Sometimes getting rid of the existing lawn and starting from scratch should be considered when problems are persistent. Just keep in mind, if water is the issue, it may encourage persistant grasses to invade and extra measures will be needed to eridicate unwanted grass.
If a lawn is prone to disease, Dirt & Turf offers a preventative disease control program, 3 applications per year. These are 3 timed applications, depending on climate, but results are not guaranteed. Extreme weather and maintenance practices could affect how well disease control works. Fungicide, which is used for disease, only works for 14 days. It’s very easy to get more than one disease a year, depending on conditions.
Another solution, a homeowner can purchase a granular fungicide and treat only the areas that are more prone to disease, as problems 1st start to arise. Since fungicide isn’t cheap, this could be a more cost-effective approach.
As with all pesticide treatments, always diagnose the issue, observe the surroundings, then determine the appropriate turf care measure, considering both economics and safety, at the same time. Do what is practical and figure out why. Know the type of diease and the causes. What type of grass is affected? Habitat, physical and mechanical controls should all be considered prior to use of pesticies. Chemical control should be the last option, even look into biological control before resorting to a pesticide. Using the right treatment can be safe, but economically it may not be the right decision. The most common reasons that may cause the disease will, most likely, happen again and again.
Moles are attracted to wooded lots and/or areas with moist sandy soils.
Moles have grey-brown fur with silver-grey underparts, a pointed nose and a short tail. They are about 16 cm in length, including a 3 cm long tail and weigh about 75 g. Their front paws are broad and spade-shaped, made for digging. The eyes of moles are covered by fur and ears are not visible.
Moles spend most of its time underground searching for food; earthworms, grubs, beetles, and insect larvae. They are active year round, but are not noticeable during colder temperatures as they follow their food further down into the soil. The tunnels they make when searching for food near the surface will tear up lawns and sometimes killing grass.
If you have a mole problem, grub control will help with one of their food sources, but they also feed on earthworms. Grub control is included in our program. Year to year, on the program, diminishing the grub population and making the lawn thicker, may help with moles without going into terminator mode. If they are persistant:
3 options on controlling moles:
- Baited Worms *– Multiple poison worms are strategically placed into different mole tunnels. As the moles eat these worms, they will just rest in peace underground. Nothing to worry about with children and pets coming across the worms or mole. May not be enough to control a high population near a wooded lot, unless a lot is used and often. Also, this may only provide control for one season. Having moles treated in the spring, may not prevent their relatives from coming in the fall.
- Metal Trap – This is a U-shaped trap that is placed over tunnels. This trap is almost like a guillotine. As the mole crosses this trap, bam! Not the friendliest solution, but may be the most cost effective, depending on the size of the population.
- Sonar Spikes – Mixed reviews on this solution; some say they work great and some say the opposite. Basically, spikes placed a certain distance apart, placed around the perimeter of a target area. This will deter the moles away from your property. Your neighbors will love you!